Welcome to the 72nd insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we take a closer look at Walter Van Beirendonck’s anonymous namesake ‘Aesthetic Terrorists’, revaling the truth behind the secretive trademark.
To understand the timeline in which Aesthetic Terrorists lived, we must first travel to the early 90’s. The year was 1994 and Walter Van Beirendonck, a Belgian fashion designer and Antwerp Six alumni, had just launched his first sub-line; Wild & Lethal Trash. Being a futuristic approach to the avant-garde main label, he debuted eccentric prints and colour focal garments, carrying the mantra, “Kiss the future, fuck the past”.
The namesake walked on elaborate runways with production sized viewings, attracting mass media attention. Funding was pooled by a German denim company known as ‘Mustang’, which Beierndonck had become acquainted with just two years prior (1992). The investors allowed Wild & Lethal Trash to realise otherworldly ideas, but became restrictive in later years, resulting in the abandonment of the sub-label altogether (1999).
Walter Van Beirendonck was legally restictricted from his beloved namesake for 5 years, and instead pursued a new endeavour; Aesthetic Terrorists. He was to remain relatively anonymous as the figurehead of the label, first debuting an array of rather minimal, branded long sleeves and progressively transcending into his unconventional niche. The brand released four collections; XtensionXfashion (SS02), Fly or Vanish (FW02), Respect Rethink React (SS03) and Pixydust (FW04), enlisting Dirk Van Saene for styling assistance and Paul Boudens for much of the graphic work.
Aesthetic Terrorists was quickly gaining traction for their irregular design philosophy and militristic style, but was abruptly cut short following the devastating 9/11 attacks. Terrorism was at the forefront of consumer’s attention, draping a provoking and sensitive veil over the title. Beirendonck chose to desert the label once again out of both monetary and political concern.
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