Welcome to the 125th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode, we investigate Demna Gvasalia's obsession with the runway show invitation, explaining the marketing tactics and reference behind each.
It’s no secret Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, has taken a liking to nuance. Having spent three years under Martin Margiela’s eponymous label back in 2009, today we’re able to draw distinct parallels between the renowned Maison and Gvasalia’s contemporary work. While we could spend hours dissecting homage atop the catwalk, we’ll instead focus on a shared interest between each designer; the show’s precursor.
Before Margiela’s reign, a runway show invitation would resemble a piece of paper with a date, time and sentiment of sorts. Despite the wildly creative event at hand, designers opted for a rather simple, traditional approach to the flyer, overlooking possibilities for social murmur and exponential reach. At the time, social media was non-existent, meaning marketing departments and higher-ups focused on elitism and true social class, selling a lifestyle opposed to a trend.
In polarizing contrast to today’s world, Balenciaga has managed to ignite anticipation weeks before the collection’s debut. Manipulating the runway show invitation as their inaugural muse, Gvasalia stirs controversy with broken iPhones, wads of fake cash, and hidden messages that reside within each. As a result, social media erupts as die-hard fans rush to decipher the pretense of every show, in turn pushing the upcoming event to a wider audience.
This past season, influencers, celebrities and high-ticket clientele were gifted one-of-one wallets packed full of.. well, junk. Complete with cat photos and imitation ID cards, which of course celebrated the brand’s directors, imagery plagued every social platform shortly after release with reels and speculation alike. Akin to Margiela’s flashlight, dinner plate or credit card, the object is simply too outrageous to ignore, sparking hot takes and ultimately, conversation.
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