Breaking Down Raf Simons’ Screen Printed Empire

Welcome to the 71st insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we dissect Raf Simons’ illustrative empire, sifting through archives to uncover the rooted history behind his most notable graphics.

Raf Simons, a Belgian designer and fashion forefather, has always had a unique approach to the runway. Unveiling his first collection in 1995, the creative became fixated on conveying thought and emotion through reference, shying from couture traditions like tailoring in pursuit of a rather distinctive niche. Youthful tropes often encircle the designer’s portfolio, using graphics and visual accomplices to aid in progressing said narrative.

We can trace Simons’ use of graphic design to his earliest collections, pulling from British influences like David Bowie in his Spring 1996 showing. As the label blossomed, these motifs became increasingly prevalent, ties to the overarching youthful theme slowly embedding themselves into namesake’s core. Music was a quintessential influence of Raf Simons creative aptitude, nodding to bands like Kraftwerk in his Autumn ‘98 show, paving the way for a plethora of references to follow.

Although screen printing is now a quintessential axis of streetwear, in the 90’s the technique was comparatively new to the runway. Raf Simons would flourish in a hue of graphic design at the turn of the century, unleashing renowned collections like ‘Riot’, ‘Virginia Creeper’ and ‘Consumed’. From the patches of Richey Edwards to the petals of the North American botanical, Simons invited us into a adolescent world, invoking a reminiscent past from within.

During 2003, “Closer” revived New Wave culture in a slew of Joy Division and New Order emblems, also embarking on a long-term collaboration with Peter Saville of Factory Records. The next year we were christened by the sacred aura of “MTCBU”, a collection built on revered allegories and symbolism, backed by Fall of 2004; “Waves”. Up to present day, Raf Simons has demonstrated the capacity of graphic design, being the first to do so with raw ability.