Discovering Stone Island’s Thermal-Sensitive Technologies & ‘Prototype’ Textile Development Line

Welcome to the 148th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode, we revisit Stone Island’s core ethos in research and development, explaining advancements in outerwear technologies and manufacturing processes.

Stone Island is often miscredited as a dead-end ‘hypebeast’ label despite years of labour-intensive efforts in the textile industry. While overlooked, the Italian namesake has continued to push the boundaries of experimentation twice a year, unveiled in their Prototype and Dark Shadow projects, alongside Ghost Pieces and treatment overhauls. Innovation stands at the height of Stoney’s portfolio, as a leading researcher in fashion’s back end.

Since the early days, Stone Island has retained values in technical achievement, beginning with the brand’s founder, Massimo Osti. In fact, prior to the label’s establishment, the designer was working on what is now known as C.P. Company, which shared a similar vision for utility and innovation. C.P. Company would gain notoriety after Osti and his team invented cross-fabric dyeing techniques in 1973, and again a decade later under Stone Island for the development of Tela Stella fabric.

The team would begin experimenting with other textiles like stainless steel and Kevlar, revolutionizing the industry. Creating garments from previously untouched fibres, the resulting products amassed infamy for their abnormal properties and dystopian appearance. In 1988 we’d get our first look at thermosensitive technologies in the Stone Island ‘ice’ jacket, which would feature a polyester base and liquid crystal coating. Garnering extreme popularity, a redux with updated pigment was released in 2010, and again seven years later with a series of knitwear.

From lasering liquid-reflective surfaces to copper nanotechnologies, Stone Island stands as an essential in the future of wearable tech. Refuting norms and profit margins to research the possibilities of manufacturing, Stoney has subsequently created its own niche of couture.