Welcome to the 172nd insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode, we direct our focus to the runway, discussing fashion’s oldest relic and its placement under the contemporary light.
Since the first stitch was sewn, the runway has been a pedestal for extravagance. From Margiela’s dawn of the Tabi to McQueen’s robotic performances, the stage has not only allowed, but encouraged a raw form of expression. Showcasing the industry’s very best, artisans, alongside their teams, work around the clock in hopes of unveiling the next trend or breakthrough innovation - however, things are changing.
While the runway may grant many positive qualities, it also retains immense risk. Monetary restrictions are perhaps the largest of them all, but strict and messy timelines can be just as large of a pain. For decades, large houses controlled this narrative, making it seem impossible to attract interest unless you presented in New York or Paris, but as of recently, many designers have simply differed. In stride with Margiela’s obscure runway philosophy, labels are beginning to define their own times and locations outside of the traditional schedule.
The independent timetable is certainly provoking but will lead to fewer eyes. As a result, many brands are forced into collaborative efforts or complex marketing schemes in order to drive ‘hype’ towards their show (if they even have one). In an attempt to make headlines and stir controversy, we continue to see intentionally absurd oddities at the forefront of fashion, straying further and further from the actual clothes at hand. These stunts may go viral online, but displace an integral part of the show - the fashion itself.
However, all is not lost. As the audience grows tired of endlessly provoking content, the pendulum has begun to swing from our current maximalist ideals. Yes, celebrities will still walk the runway despite stylistic illiteracy, but perhaps we will begin to see an emphasis on the celebration of authentic fashion, a return to cuts and construction.
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