From Harley’s to Hollywood, How Chrome Hearts Amassed a $1 Billion Empire

Welcome to the 64th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we look into the evolution of Chrome Hearts, the 1980’s American biker label that has since overthrew popular culture.

Unless you’ve been under a rock the past few years, it’s likely you’ve seen the cross emblems now synonymous with Chrome Hearts, or the expert craftsmanship behind them. As prices soar upwards and demand increases, commonplace resides at the 5-digit price point for Chrome Hearts Levi’s, and even higher in regard to leatherwork. But how did a brand started in the garage of two die-hard bikers reach the critical acclaim it retains today?

Chrome Hearts’ origin can be traced back to Richard Stark, the remaining owner and founder of the Los Angeles native label. In pursuit of the perfect leather jacket he enlisted John Bowman (manufacturer), and silver worker Leonard Kamhout shortly after. With a focal point on craft and raw material, Chrome Hearts would soon be seen on the backs of the Sex Pistols, Motley Crüe and Guns N’ Roses.

Stark’s lackluster attitude meshed brilliantly with the ideals of rock stars throughout the 90’s, carving its own placement on the spectrum of anti-fashion. Embraced by the rebellious persona of Rei Kawakubo, the label would be inducted under the Japanese limelight at its debut in the Comme Des Garcons flagship store. Just 12 years after founding (1988), Chrome Hearts would succumb to the celebrity of high fashion, but their ethos would prosper in the same regard.

The label’s would continue to radiate in the hearts of American made bikers and rockstars alike, but would also gain notoriety in the hip-hop/archive scene. Chrome Hearts began to work alongside designers like Rick Owens, Virgil Abloh, worn by just about every rapper and model. Despite their claim to fame, the label’s authenticity remains intact, true to Stark’s mantra of rebellion and non-conformity. Perhaps this attitude is the driving force behind their vice on pop-culture.