Has 'Runway Fashion' Died at the Grips of Soulless Marketing?

Welcome to the 225th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode, we debate the contemporary state of runway fashion, observing the growing demand for passion-driven design while contemplating the overlooked risks of minimalism and authenticity.

There's no question the catwalk is nearing a very dim future. What was once considered a height of prestige, this art form has fallen into a perpetual trap of algorithm-driven performances. Discarding luxury's key attributes, i.e. the cut, textile and craftsmanship that justified retail price tags, today it feels as if design focus has shifted towards the external components of the runway, with countless attempts to manufacture shock value.

For reference, so far in the Spring of 2024 alone, Bape walked an unofficial toss-up collaboration with MSCHF, each of Sunnei's looks was rated on stage by the audience, and AVAVAV held a "deconstructive" fashion show in which pieces and models fell apart on the catwalk. Considering we're about six weeks into the season and are still awaiting much of Paris' showings, it's becoming hard to discern 'it' moments from glorified Instagram reel presentations.

Now, these theatrics are somewhat justified, as amid an oversaturated industry, defining oneself is difficult. Marketing is essential to generating sales, but we must acknowledge the imbalance when the scale between using theatre to voice an opinion tips closer to a cry for attention. Designers cannot change the industry standard every season; volume should not replace craft. Yet, as we inch closer to a digitized world, attention is spread thin, and the arts we once appreciated seem to have lost their online appeal.

Putting designers in a tearing position, creatives are forced to either sacrifice taste and generate views or disband and potentially fall out of trend. Runway fashion is still alive, but interest will dwindle if we continue down this tasteless path. At this stage, we hope to see a shift in consumer culture and luxury's communicative avenues.