Welcome to the 112th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we take to the mountains, zipping up our Beta AR’s in search of Gorpcore’s origins.
Coined by Jason Chen back in 2017, ‘gorp’ as a term is an abbreviation for “Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts” (believe it or not). Better known as trail mix, the deriving snack is popular among campers and outdoorsmen alike, making it the perfect pseudonym for their distinctive style. Much like the name, this niche is defined by utility and function, contrary to its preceding titles like “Granola-wear” or “Camping-chic”.
But what exactly constitutes gorp? It’s easy to confuse this genre with its techwear counterpart, often sharing similarities in use of textile and premise. Yet, there are many attributes which categorise gorp as a standalone aesthetic, ranging from brand to cut, construction and use. While somewhat puzzling, the sub-genre can play both sides of the utilitarian coin, sometimes bleeding into neighbouring styles.
Beginning with function, this niche is designed to be worn. Not only is the cut optimised to endure the most extreme of conditions, but it’s also breathable and durable. Jackets are wider to account for base layers and tech fleeces, pants loose yet straight fitting. The hardware is easily manipulated while wearing gloves, the hems intentionally cinched to protect the wearer from snow and rain.
Today, gropcore strays from its intended roots as consumers flock towards nylon and Gore-tex. Regardless, it continues to expand, nearly stepping into the luxury realm as brands like Arc’teryx collaborate with Virgil Abloh’s, Off-White. Style icons like Drake, Frank Ocean and Ye have sported these labels in the past, only becoming more popular as the mainstream begins to indulge.
Labels like The North Face and Patagonia have seen countless partnerships with the luxury world, questioning their placement in fashion. Retail prices are just as high, their consumer basis is cult-like, and each piece is crafted with heart. That being said, could they ever walk the runway?
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