How Martin Margiela’s ‘White Tag’ Redefined Our Perceptions of Branding

Welcome to the 44th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we comb through the archives of the unparalleled Belgian designer; Martin Margiela, in order to deconstruct his signature ‘white tag’.

Martin Margiela, today a cultural phenomenon and celebrated fashion godfather, first began his career at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts - Belgium. Regarded as an honorary member of the Antwerp Six (known as the unofficial seventh member), his influence began at the feet of Jean Paul Gaultier’s label, 1984. Serving as design assistant from ‘84-’87, Marigela then left the house the following year to embark on his own creative endeavor, founding Maison Martin Margiela in 1988.

From his first collections, Margiela maintained a strict anonymity, later becoming a key value of the label’s persona. The designer wanted to rid of preconceived notions in the mind of the consumer, and instead allow his audience to appreciate the house’s products as standalone work. Using anonymity as a catalyst, Margiela was successful in removing a persona from his design. By shifting the narrative of a solely commemorated director, the limelight was pushed to one allied collective, the Maison.

This shadowed ideology is relayed in all of Margiela’s craft, however the infamous ‘white tag’ is the epitome of such. Sewn on each corner with a single thread, the originating blank white tag was void of any numeric code, developed with intent to be removed. Doing so in pursuit of attempted foreign perspective, Margiela’s notoriously circled tag was released in May of 1997.

The numbered cotton tag, reading from 1-22, ironically possesses great influence in the world of fashion. Each number symbolizing a separate line; ⓪ Artisanal, ① Womenswear, ⑩ Menswear, ⑬ Objects & Publications, the purposefully discreet symbolism has had the adverse effect and is now an instantly recognizable motif. The ‘white tag’ has gained notoriety outside of the Maison, and is now accredited with partial significance of the brand.