Welcome to the 85th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we break down Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2023 collection, featuring a performance from Kendrick Lamar.
Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2022 collection, known as Virgil Abloh’s posthumous work and final showing at the maison, left many to question the namesake’s future. With unmatched influence, the label has been challenged in finding a new face to direct the brand, and reasonably so. However, today we were greeted with the first showing outside of Abloh’s reign, presented by the staff themselves.
Opening with a 3 minute prelude titled “Stange Math” (a stylistic medium introduced by Abloh), the film “explores the relationship between imagination and reality”. To the beat of June Tyson’s; Enlightenment, the Marching 100 orchestra follow the protagonist through a variety of dynamic shots before being teleported to the physical runway location in Paris.
Situated at the Louvre’s Cour Carrée (Square Court), a vibrant yellow track weaves and loops through the eager audience, all too reminiscent of a childhood Hot Wheels track or yellow brick road from the Wizard of Oz. The set clearly referenced Abloh’s first rainbow catwalk in Spring of 2019, as well as the theatrics that came in part.
The Marching 100 inaugurated the show with a five minute long routine, sporting both the Florida University uniform and custom Louis Vuitton gear. To much surprise, as the trumpets faded and flags fell, a familiar voice began to chant “Virgil” among other short-lived stanzas. The beat kicked in to “Savior”, a track off Kendrick Lamar’s recent album, “Mr. Morale & The Big Steppers”, while the camera panned to the artist who was seated on the side of the runway.
Performing “N95”, “Rich Spirit” and “Count Me Out”, Lamar continued to praise Virgil Abloh in nearly every line, closing the narrative with a repetition ode to the designer, crying out “Long Live Virgil”. Kendrick Lamar was seen wearing a remake of Alexander McQueen’s “Thorn of Roses” headpiece, also fitting a gray suit.
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