What Happened to Hood by Air?

Welcome to the 87th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we uncover the secrets behind Hood by Air’s unexpected Hiatus, and their return to the fashion industry.

The year was 2006; Bapesta’s were the hottest item known to man and Kanye West’s ‘Late Registration’ had dropped just a few months prior. The fashion scene was in a moment of change as Hedi Slimane reinvented the male silhouette, and low-rise, boot-cut jeans became inescapable overnight. Despite the millenia’s hecticity, two upcoming designers were able to bloom in a crack of the streetwear scene - their names were Shayne Oliver and Raul Lopez.

Hood by Air was a first of its kind, inaugurating the logo-heavy streetwear aesthetic we’ve seen time and time again. A precursor to brands like Pyrex Vision, the label was unapologetically experimental and ubiquitous with both luxury and street fashion. Pioneering a new trope in the industry, Shayne Oliver faced the brand, climbing the social hierarchy with undeniable success. That is, until their first “hiatus” in 2009.

Raul Lopez was aware of his deteriorating position and decided to embark on his own endeavors. Oliver became invested with ‘GHE20GOTH1K’, an underground party scene in which he Dj’d at, and began to drift from HBA. The only issue was, the brand was blowing up - like, really blowing up, and demand was at an all time high. Upcoming artist @asaprocky was sporting nearly every piece from prior collections and singlehandedly reviving the brand.

Oliver decided to kickstart Hood by Air once again, and was met with a whirlwind of fame and subsequent wealth. Surviving a diss out of left-field from A$AP Rocky on the “multiply” music video, the brand seemed unstoppable. However, after partnering with the New Guards Group in hopes of expansion, the designer quickly realized clashing artistic intentions and began to lose control of his label.

As staff left, he made the decision to cancel Hood by Air’s upcoming season and announce an indefinite close. In 2019, he would state HBA would be returning, but hasn’t curated such infamy since.