Welcome to the 176th insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode, we discover the new age of design, shedding light on designers of the past, present and future.
Over the last decade, a new generation of creatives have emerged. Following the retirement of Raf Simons and the passing of both Issey Miyake and Virgil Abloh, the industry is calling upon a fresh talent for the first time in almost three decades. Pushing focus toward the youth of today, we anticipate the visionaries of tomorrow, looking forward through unseen eyes.
Back in July of last year, controversy stirred as the industry debated Louis Vuitton’s next creative director. Names like Martine Rose circled in thought as others fought for the likes of Samuel Ross and Kanye West, before Pharrell Williams was appointed as an unexpected successor. Despite a hint of backlash, the conversation provoked many to pull away from beloved Maisons and take a look at up-and-coming talent, all of which was directed toward those in development.
A key prospect was undeniably Colm Dillane of KidSuper, who seems to have recently bulldozed his work into nearly every headlining magazine. Doubling as LV’s stand-in director for FW23, he shares the limelight with that of Ibrahim Kamara, who has similarly worked under Abloh’s reign. Appointed as Off-White’s head of Art and Imagining back in April, the Sierra Leone native has been creating boardless, space-age designs with an emphasis on shape and palette, as opposed to Abloh’s eponymous logos.
In stride with futuristic staples, Everard Best of WHO DECIDES WAR has been working to summon pieces from another planet. Shying only from minimalism, the artisan works almost exclusively with embroidery, print, and an eccentric palette, while occasionally demonstrating his expertise in finer works. Despite such polarizing techniques, he shares many maximalist trits with designers like Eli Russel Lintez, or Heliot Emil, who continues to (literally) set fire to runway fashion. With that being said, who do you think is next up in such a saturated market?
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