Welcome to the 52nd insertion of DEMUR®, an analytical series highlighting the intricacies of the artistic world and the minutiae lying within. In this episode we walk off the runway and step into the world of stage design, examining why setting is such an impactful aspect of fashion.
Runway fashion, a norm in the present tense, is an art form that dates back to the mid 18th Century, Paris. At first, fashion shows were presented to small groups of typically wealthy individuals who seeked the newest and most exclusive designs. These “shows” were often held privately, orchestrated solely for elite clients and were nowhere near the production scale seen today.
As technology advanced and consumerism began to flourish, by the 1900’s we were met with the first glimmer of contemporary runway shows. Catering, journalists and seated audiences congregated to review and experience the live runway for the first time. Maisons like Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga began to establish the foundation for the catwalk, sending models down the linear stage with cold faces and a prevailing strut.
Fashion hot spots like New York, Paris and Milan were growing rapidly and by the time the 60’s rolled around, music had become inseparable from the showings. Designers started to rethink the premise of a runway and how setting could impact a show, working on not only the clothing, but also the environment they’re presented in.
From the late 80’s, creatives like Margiela, Alexander McQueen and Walter Van Beirendonck ran with this premise, immersing their viewers in a curated world of theatrics. Their runways lit with fire and toyed with lighting, forcing the viewer’s eye into a space of their own. Now in control of perception, artists were able to set the tone and allow onlookers a sight into their own head.
Stage design became so crucial as designers were no longer limited to the voice of their respective garment, using the set as a stylistic device to tell stories. As fashion continues to expand and induct new eyes to the prominence of the runway, we continue to see an unprecedented focus on the extremities of the catwalk.
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